Fishing the Bubba Craw for
Largemouth Bass

A medium heavy spinning outfit and / or typical
conventional casting gear in 6 ½-7 ft. lengths works well for this
soft-bait jig. I prefer 20 lb.test braided line joined to 12 lb.test P-line
fluorocarbon leader w/ a double uni-knot.Fluorocarbon line has superior resistance to abrasion from rocks, rubble and wood.
The 3/16 and 5/16 oz., reduced snag weighted hooks offers the angler options for working various water depths. The 3/16 oz. weights work well w/a heavy duty spinning outfit and is heavy enough to be flipped and pitched. The 5/16 gives extra weight for excellent bottom contact in deeper water and windy conditions. The weight is perfect for effortless casting and pitching w/ conventional rod/reel outfits.
The Bubba Craw jig has very good snag resistance. It is beneficial to stick the point of the hook back into the soft-bait when working in weeds and wood. Pull the bait forward while lifting it slightly above the hook point and let a 1/32’’ length of the hook tip penetrate the plastic .Horizontal, sub-surface wood, slab rock, jagged edges boulders and man made rock used around Dams are notorious for snags w/all of their voids they create. I have a procedure called the “Buggy Whip Technique” that will free 50% of your snags -IF- you follow this method
The Buggy Whip Technique
BEFORE YOU START PULLING HOPELESSLY after a snag
(this only sets the lure deeper/harder into the snag) TRY THIS. Hold the
line away from your body in your left hand (about elbow height). Pull your
fishing rod up to the 12 0’clock position with your right hand. The line will make a tight V from the reel to your outstretched left-hand and back to the 1st guide. Whip your rod forward (like whipping the horse) while simultaneously letting go with the left hand (your line should make a snapping sound).
Do this 5-12 times if necessary. Repositioning your boat to the opposite side of the snag will help free the bait w/the aforementioned technique. This may save you a costly break-off and the inconvenience of tying on new bait and leader
Post spawn, Summer Bassing w/Bubba
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I prefer sloping, rocky points, main lake rocky high-spots/humps, open “pot-holes” in dense weed beds and sunken wooden structure for working the jig. I hold my rod parallel to the water and work the rod from right to left w/short, continuous wrist movement’s w/occasional pauses. I’m inching the jig along the bottom, maintaining constant contact throughout the entire retrieve. A sudden feeling of lost bottom contact could be a pick-up. Many times 1 slight tap or bump is the only signal that the bass has taken the jig. Pick –up your slack and load –up your rod by applying slight pressure -you’ll feel the head bump of the bass. Remove all slack line and set the hook. The “easy” bass do all anglers a favor by swimming off to the left or right after taking the jig. Be a line watcher and pay attention where your line enters the water. The sneaky bass take the jig and begin swimming directly @ you! Usually, you’ll have all loss of any bottom contact feeling when this happens. These bass require you to realize they’re moving at you. React quickly and pick-up the slack to determine the location of the bass BEFORE you set the hook on tight line.
Bass are attracted to Bubba Craw w/the lifelike, 4” silhouette and moving silicone layers. The Hitchiker coil keeper holds
Bubba craw securely in place. Smallmouth bass in lakes and the Susquehanna River love
Bubba
Craw. The salt and real crawfish scent impregnation causes them to hold onto the
Bubba Craw longer. Please do not add any other additional scent to the bait. Tears in the hooking area can easily be repair to ‘’like-new condition’’ with Mend-it-swim bait repair glue. |
Give your traditional Jig ‘n Pig a much needed rest and tie on a Bubba
Craw. You’ll be glad you did!




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