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"Please release your catch today ,so others may enjoy the thrill tomorrow"

Al Winco


February 2006 Newsletter

 

A Trailer Horror Story

 

     Mike (my fishing buddy) and I decided to fish Assunpink Lake in New Jersey after the wind at Carnegie Lake was un-favorable. The road into the lake looked like the department of defense had practiced a laser-guided bombing mission. I was very upset at these conditions but continued on at 1-3 mph. For those of you who haven’t fished the lakes in this refuge, there are NO docks or PAVED launch ramps and the lakes are electric motor only (they are also pounded and drilled beyond belief). The launch area consisted of sand and pea-gravel. You could see the trailer tire imprints under the tea colored water, so after watching another rig launch, we followed. Thank goodness for a 4-wheel drive tow vehicle, as we had to get the back wheels into the water, blowing bubbles with the exhaust pipe to get the boat off the trailer. Then we pulled the boat up against a slanted, broken piece of concrete to do a high-wire act to get into the boat! Now back on the trailer after a lousy day of fishing (water 62 degrees).
     After guiding the boat onto the trailer with the electric motor (as far as we could go), Mike threw me the winch strap and I hooked it to the bow eye. Then Mike started winding his brains out with the strap crank. I told him to stop with 6 feet to go, and (the half rocket-scientist/moron I can be at times) instructed him to slooowly drive up to the flat area of the parking-lot. (the only area the laser-guided bombs missed). Mike drove about 8 feet and then this loud, rifle like cracking sound took place. He stopped, jumped out of the vehicle and the look on his face told me to get out of the boat. There she was, boat trailer completely out of the water (still on the incline) the frame on the left side bent and severely buckled 1 foot in front of the tire, and the same deal 6 inches in front of the right trailer tire. I’ll spare everyone the words that came out of my mouth for the next 5 minutes. Oh yea!, I forgot to mention the back of the trailer was on the ground, along with the boat .You needed a 6 foot step ladder to reach the bow of the boat. After talking with Mike (the calm one of this duo), I decided to have him slowly proceed in reverse, stopping him every 1-3 feet to wind the winch strap and bow up and down on the trailer. It worked!!!!!Boat on the trailer frame straight, but buckled with cracks. I measured the distance from the frame to the ground in 6 different places, wrote them down and checked them 5 times before heading back to Pa. via I -195 and the turnpike. We made it home in one piece. I had a first –class welding/repair job performed by: Anderson Welding 215-886-1726 (309 Exit PA. turnpike Area). He put gusset supports and custom made channel to secure the frame. He also informed me the trailer was severely rusted inside and should be replaced for next year. The trailer has been replaced. (the trailer was a 9-year old Bass Tracker Trailer—current owners of these beware and be advised, and do take action if you see rust coming from the inside on your trailer frame).

 

Jig Mold Modification

 

Jig mold modification-Do-It FBB 14, 1/4oz football jig/Do-It FBB 18,1/8 oz football jig I.M.O., you'll catch more fish with a football jig vs.tube or ball jig for the simple reason called, "central balance". Football jigs stay upright and ball and tube jigs lay on their side. Here's the proceedure I've use to modify these molds.

Hooks for the above molds: MUSTAD 32746 BR 3/0 and 4/0 These are needle point, wide gap hooks!!

Skip the 1st cavity in each mold and use alternate cavities. The hooks are large and you'll only be able to pour 3 at a time in each mold when finished.

Lay the hook(3/0 for 1/8 and 4/0 for 1/4) in the cavity and see where the eye of the hook lays.

Mark and drill with a 5/32 drill (using a drill press with the mold clamped to the base )drill only deep enough so the mold closes-be careful!!

Take a screw driver with a hammer and tap the mold where the leg of the hook fits. Check to see if hook fits: if not tap again (don't use a wide screwdriver) Do this to both sides of the mold( Please don't rush-take a break) Check the fit in each cavity you are working in and close the mold Open the mold and file the face of each cavity with a fine-grit Nicholson file (file lightly, just enough to remove any burrs/roughness). Then brush or blow out the mold. You must proceed carefully with each step or the mold will flash when you pour and you just made a trash-can deposit of $35.00(Depending upon where you bought the mold)

Lead Pouring Tips: A booth with exhaust fans is strongly recommended!!!!!

Fluxing the lead: With the lead melted, in the pot,PLEASE PAY ATTENTION to this one ,word for word, Use 1 small fingernail (width, length, depth) size of beeswax, place on a spoon and dip into the lead stirring the lead. Your lead will smoke like a wet campfire, and if you add to much beeswax, start a fire!!!!! This will bring most of the impurities in the lead to the top and can be spooned off. Now you have clean lead clean lead with most of the slag removed.

Using a digital pyrometer, keep your melted lead at 790-850 degrees . A bottom pour pot with a thermostat is expensive but works well for maintaining a certain temperature and ease of pouring.

Wheel weights are dirty, not acceptable sources of lead (I.M.O.). Try to find the thin sheets of lead they use in a hospital x-ray room.

This soft lead is great for jigs but do not use it for buzzbaits and spinner-baits.

Last Sugggestion: Using a permanent black magic marker, make a horizontal line (dead center in the openingof the cavity that you pour the lead into) .This line can be used as a pouring guide. It is advisable to wear gloves, eye protection and NEVER NEVER EVER get water into hot lead (you'll need plastic surgery). I'm sure there is other tricks for this proceedure and please share them with me.

 

Jig-Fishing Basics

 

 In my opinion (IMO),G-Loomis IMX,6 1/2 ft med/hev. action,20 to 30 lb. test Power Pro Braid with a 12lb.test fluorocarbon leader joined with a uni-knot. Tie the jig to the leader with a palomar knot. Start by fishing known bottom structure so you know and feel the difference between wood (vertical/horizontal), rocks and weeds. Fish with a guy that really knows how to flip/pitch and manipulate a jig through heavy wood/weed cover and is willing to teach you all the tricks. Start with a 3/8 oz, black/blue jig with a bullet head and 30 strand fiber weedguard. Rattle jigs can make a big difference at times. Use a plastic trailer that has true salt and scent impregnation. I personally don't care for the spray on/wash right off sprays). Check your jig hooks often-they should stick into your fingernail, not slide across. Fish in the trees, not around them. Pitch /flip all open pockets in a weedbed. It's easier to feel bottom structure coming up a ledge vs. going down the ledge. When you're fishing the jig ,know the bottom/structure your fishing and suddenly you feel nothing, set the hook. Hawg-face inhaled the jig with a gill-flare and is swimming at you! Learn the "Buggy-Whip" technique to free your snagged jigs before you break them off. I apologize if I seem to technical, but Jigs 101 should jump start you. All the good jig fishermen I've been fortunate to share a boat with have the same things in common: they fish slowly and thoroughly; they pitch /flip with extreme accuracy and always watch their line.

A fiber weed guard has no, absolutely NO value in rocky areas. There, I use footfall jigs that have central balance and won't tip over on their side (the reason I.M.O. that many fish are missed). The trick with football jigs in rocky areas is to use the lightest jig possible and when you become snagged, free the jig with the "buggy whip" technique. most guys just pull back hard repeatedly, causing the jig to bury itself deeper in the rocks.).  Double-barrel rattles properly positioned and glued in place also give a jig central balance. I've had bass come back and slam a jig ,shaken in place after they miss it the 1st time. However, there is times when bass do not want rattles.

I prefer a 55 strand silicone skirt on a 3/8 oz.jig, trimmed just below the bottom of the hook. I used to be a pork-only freak, but now use salt and scent impregnated plastic trailers that I manufacture. The trailers can be held in place using a new product called, Pro's Soft-Bait Glue. It works better (IMO) then toothpicks and all the other super-glues. Jig fishing is a technique that takes years and to perfect and tweak. The bass ,as always, have the final say. (I manufacture a watermelon/green pumpkin jig that gives black and blue "a run for it's money!"). During full moon and new moon cycles (when crawfish are hatching and the jig bite is on) You just have to be close with the type of jig and color, but 100% on with technique. I just introduced a new trailer called "claw-chunk". The 1st 75% of the bait has salt &scent, but the claw part has just scent. Ask me in 6 months if customers prefer this trailer over traditional ones. I'm sure some guys will disagree with me on this, but please remember 95% of jig bites come on the fall so what does that tell you? All a bass has to do is flare their gills and that will inhale your jig from 6 inches away.

   THE END